Lalibela would have to be one of the most scenic places I have been to. The village and churches are perched on the top of a hill with superb views of the surrounding countryside. The village itself is small and can easily be explored on foot.
Photo by Annelieke Huijgens
There are many delightful restaurants with great food and wonderful views, and Ethiopian cultural performances often running in the evenings. Another must do in Lalibela is to visit a Tej house. Tej, a honey liquor made in Ethiopia coming in different strengths, is served in small little glass jars or jugs and is quite simply delicious – an authentic tasting experience while in Lalibela.
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Credit: cotterillmike
From the small village you can arrange for a horse to take you up the hill behind the village, which is appreciated due to the very steep nature of the hill and for the altitude which then makes the climb so much easier. The trip takes you through farmland and smaller villages to where the trail becomes quite narrow which is where you then walk alongside a cliff through an opening and up to the summit of the hill. Once at the summit, the 360-degree views are simply amazing! Here, you also can visit another small church which, from the outside looks quite unremarkable, has been carved into the summit of the hill. While the church itself is not as impressive as the other well-known 11 churches in the Lalibela complex, the view from the summit is incredible and the priest shows you some amazing Ethiopian religious artifacts.
The villages of Lalibela by James Atwell
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Photo by Annelieke Huijgens
Many of the churches are linked together by narrow walkways and passages below ground level with surprises to be discovered around every corner. You do need to be relatively fit and mobile as there is some climbing and lots of walking involved and the rock underfoot can be quite slippery especially when wet.
All of the churches are different yet each are incredibly beautiful. Some are hewn out of the rock and stand in isolation (only attached at the ground) whereas some are carved into a rock face and attached at the top and bottom.
Each church has its own Orthodox priest who looks after the church. You can enter all the churches, but shoes are to be removed. Some of the interior rooms off the main areas of the churches can only be entered by men. No one can enter the ‘inner sanctum’ of any of the churches as the priest is only permitted to enter.
Photos by James Atwell
Lalibela fresoes by James Atwell
Apart from Bet Giyorgis, each of the churches are covered to protect them from the elements which can make it somewhat difficult to grab the best photo. For this reason, Bet Giyorgis is the most photographed and well known of the rock hewn churches. The stories and religious myths surrounding the churches are also fascinating. There is one place on the entrance to Bet Giyorgis, otherwise known as the Church of St George, where they believe there is evidence of St George riding his horse up the rock face as some can see hoof marks. St George, being the patron saint of Ethiopia, even has their beer named after him.
Church of St George photos by James Atwell
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