Overview
The Story Of the Queen
Built during the New Kingdoms 18th Dynasty, also known as “Holy of Holies", the imposing three terraced temples almost appears to rise out of both the desert and the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari in such a spectacular fashion that you can’t help but want to be told its stories.
Queen Hatshepsut was born to King Thutmoses I and his wife Ahmose. To ensure succession of the Royal Line, upon the death of her beloved father, she was married to her half-brother Thutmoses II. This King, not built to last died young and was succeeded by his son to another lesser wife, Isis. Due to Thutmoses III infancy, Hatshepsut was deigned Queen Regent, to reign on his behalf.
By the 7th year of Thutmoses III and Hatshepsut’s co-reign, Hatshepsut had gained full royal titles and was crowned King, with her ensuring she was very much the dominant ruler. Up until this point Hatshepsut has been depicted in historic writings and pictures as a feminine ruler, but now came the transition into portraiture of her with a male body and beard, mostly said to ensure she would be seen as a traditional king.
No definitive explanation has come of how she managed to keep her reign and from being usurped, many say it’s partially to do with who she surrounded herself with and how she managed her reign with peace and trade in lieu of war. One of her loyalists was her counsellor and Architect Senanmut, and it’s believed it is he that took on the job of designing the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, commissioned as was her right as ruler.
Experience the Temple from Every Angle
The temple was designed to serve as both tomb and temple, some say partially at Hatshepsut’s adamance of her divine right to rule as a Pharoah. Architecturally however there are significant signs she believed the honouring of her God, Amun was still more important than immortalising her life in the same ego as her predecessors.
Located across the Nile from Karnak Temple, Amun's main sanctuary. Not coincidentally, located also near Mentuhotep II temple, allowing her to not only associate her ownexistence to the divinity of her God but also to her most revered predecessor. This in where lies her own temple, three impressive levels, elaborately built, made mostly of limestone and a little red granite, and each level with service to uphold.
Reached by a large stone ramp, stairs climbing on either side, although the climb may seem somewhat foreboding as it’s so long, every step up is easier as the scene set in front of you makes you want to race to next space with the promise of history.
The lower lever, guarded by 2 huge sphinxes almost daring you to enter. There is remaining if not very slight evidence of the Myrrh Trees planted along the pathways, obtained from the peacekeeping journeys to Africa, brought back as a gift but not acclimatised to the landscape.
The porticos and columns here on the lower floor still protecting such beautifully preserved depictions of the coronation scenes of Hatshepsut. Brilliant shades of blue and terracotta still so bright and clear as if not formed over 3000 years ago. The open spaces here unbelievably available to walk through and see up close such detailed history as Hatshepsut wanted it remembered.
The middle terrace holds even more impressive columned spaces. The southwest facing holds storytelling of the expedition to Punt and the treasures brought back. The northwest brings the legend of her divine conception being shown as by both Thutmoses and Amun to Ahmose. Embodying forever both justifications of her right as Pharoah. This is the recorded as the first scene made of its kind in Hatshepsut’s divination.
Chapels here for both Hathor, on the south end, and Anubis on the north end, are both detailed with history in picture form. Hathor’s chapel depicting Hatshepsut’s reincarnation as a Goddess and Anubis' depicting the designation of her as heir to the throne.
The storytelling, not only bright, beautiful and brilliantly preserved but also when told to you as your following along the walls associating the art, is mesmerising. The way the depictions come full circle, brings history alive in a way no form of media could manage.
The third, top terrace, is met by columns, some footed by figures of Hatshepsut over five metres tall, framing the way to the opening of the courtyard. Standing foot to foot at the base of these, brings around how a person brought this all in to being. A woman with no right as Pharoah, changing history and ruling a world so dominated by men, it dares you to be inspired.
The courtyard representing both Upper and Lower Egypt, uniting to be ruled by Hatshepsut, making way for the Mortuary Cult Complex, the offerings hall for Hatshepsut and the Solar Cult Court, and not least right in the back at the middle of the temple the shrine for Amun himself. Almost as though through her associating now as a divine ruler, the chapel alongside her God Amun, was most appropriate.
Hatshepsut’s Vanished Legacy
This is where it became evident how significantly Hatshepsut’s presence in the temple's depictions had been damaged or even entirely removed. Whole limestone slabs carved out of the wall, hacked at the edges. Her face scratched out almost violently as if to erase not just her image but her whole being from Egypt’s history. It feels angry and unjustified on a human level as well as just heartbreaking from a preservation of art and history level.
The history and stories, of which there are a few can be somewhat vague or even quite conspiratorial as to why this happened, some say it was her Stepson and co-ruler Thutmoses III erasing her successful attempt at ruling like a man. Some say it was his court, damaging the” Propaganda “of an illicit ruler. Either way, walking back through and realising the extent of this purposeful damage is extremely emotion evoking.
It was said that Hatshepsut was originally buried here, although once rediscovered, her sarcophagus was said to be devoid of her body. What was found of what is stated to be what she wanted to remain, was reinterred with her father, Thutmoses I in his tomb. This brings about the wondering then of how she died and where she was placed. Stories abound of her having cancer, being murdered and simply just wandering off into the desert to meet her peace alone. The truth of this will always only lay with her Gods.
Visiting this temple is highly recommended—it is an experience not to be missed. Make sure this is on your list of things to witness and to immerse yourself in. Not just because of the sheer magnificence of the structure, the symmetry that it holds with its location and the beauty of the art that you can see visually, but because of the stories the walls hold, the hope that this Pharoah’s reign brought to a unified Egypt, and the absolute mind-blowing emotion that only comes from standing right where such important history took place.
The Queen who become a King, assumed the position of a god, ruled with peace and trade, and triumphed in a man’s world – her name might be difficult to pronounce, it will remain unforgettable for you.
Image credit to Vicky Rothwell.
